So… Why Java?
Java wasn’t a major part of our original travel plans. Sure, we had Yogyakarta and Borobudur on the must-see list, but the rest of the island? Not so much. Other parts of Indonesia were more tempting – until Mount Lewatobi in Flores erupted and threw a spanner in the works that is…
With over 150 million people, Java is Indonesia’s most populous island. In fact, it’s the most populous on Earth! That, along with a few other reasons, is why we weren’t too enthusiastic about going. But, in the spirit of not doing things by halves, we said “F**k it!” and flew into Surabaya – a city that, according to multiple sources, should be avoided at all costs. It’s crushingly hot, polluted, overcrowded, characterless, and as one fellow Brit reported, “not designed for human life.” – Praise indeed!
Well actually, in truth… We kinda chickened out. We did fly into Surabaya, but we arrived late at night and saw no point in paying for a hotel only to escape at dawn. Instead, we shelled out £25 for a taxi to whisk us straight to Malang, a few hours away. There were cheaper options, like trains and buses, but none worked for us. Plus, half the trainline was down, which meant a dreaded replacement bus service… No way! I did not travel halfway around the world to still be dealing with those!
Anyway, hopefully this blog will give you some idea about how to tackle Java, should you ever find yourselves there! A bit of inspiration, perhaps.
The Taxi Ride
The plan was simple: escape a hot, polluted, smelly city as fast as possible! Now that we’re in our thirties, enduring unnecessary discomfort just feels stupid… What are we trying to prove? Sadly however, discomfort often finds its way to you, no matter how hard you try to avoid it!
Our taxi driver, a middle-aged, balding Malanger (is that what people from Malang call themselves?), seemed friendly enough. His English was basic, but we managed with a few words and some enthusiastic hand gestures. Also, his minivan, despite being parked an annoyingly long trek from arrivals, was clean and comfortable. It all seemed good – £25 well spent!
But not long after we left the airport carpark, I started hearing an odd, muffled sound every minute or so. A low, whispery gurgle just audible over the road noise. Soon, the faint aroma of something sour and vaguely foody crept into my nostrils. I glanced at Mary-Ann, but she was already blissfully asleep...
Then I saw it in the corner of my eye – the driver subtly covering his mouth, tapping his chest, and smacking his lips. “Surely not,” I thought… Could he really be burping that often?! My suspicions were confirmed a few minutes later as I synced the gurgling sound with his movements. He really was unleashing rancid burps every minute or so – for the entire two-hour journey!
So much for escaping the smelly pollution, huh?
Eventually, Mary-Ann woke up, and I shared our predicament. She was peeved with me for pointing it out and ruining her blissful ignorance. But at least she had a scarf to wrap around her face for some relief!
Malang
What is There To Do in Malang?
Day 1: The Colourful and Very Wet City
Against all odds, we survived the taxi-come-gas chamber, and made it to our hostel, ‘Youkata Stay.’ It’s well-located, spotless, and the staff are great – all for just £14 a night. Bargain!
The days prior, Lord Google had informed us that Malang is a hub for trips to Mount Bromo and the rather impressive Tumpak Sewu waterfall. But on Day 1, we weren’t up for epic adventures, so we hired a moped and went exploring instead!
Starting at a very responsible 9am, here is how the day went:
Rainbow and Blue villages
Right in the middle of town, two riverside communities that are separated by a bridge, would just look like old unremarkable shanty towns. But these two are different – Jodipan resembles a pack of fruit Mentos, while the Blue Village channels the classic minty kind. For a couple of quid, you can wander the brightly coloured streets, snap some nice photos, and really wonder how much paint they must get through there!
Waterfall hunting
Malang’s surrounding mountains are home to a collection of waterfalls, though getting there may involve battling some intense traffic. But, if you’re confident on a moped (or just an idiot like me), you’re set!
1. Coban Rondo
A scenic waterfall with minimal crowds and vibrant nature. We also had a brilliantly random time with locals trying (and failing) at archery and navigating a maze. Then, once you’ve done playing, you can relax with a boardgame at ‘Greenrock Café’, and admire the great views.
2. Coban Putri
Smaller than Rondo, and even quieter. Only a handful of locals braved a rutted, pothole-filled road to get there with us – only tackle this if you’re comfortable on a moped. If the weather betrays you like it did for us, think twice!
3. Bonus
There are plenty more waterfalls in the area to discover if you’ve got time and a moped! You could spend days hunting them all down.
Café hopping
We are notoriously indecisive when it comes to agreeing on a place for a coffee, cake or meal! One way we get around this, is just by going to a few different places! Malang doesn’t have much of a town centre per se, but there are loads of Cafes dotted around! We recommend the ‘Bohemian Café’, it was our favourite!
Day 2: A Somewhat Bigger Waterfall
Tumpak Sewu Falls
While café-hopping on Day 1, we booked a tour to Tumpak Sewu via ‘GetYourGuide’. If you’re not already using it, get on it! A group tour will set you back you about £30 – not particularly cheap, I know. But, unless you’re up for a confusing myriad of buses, taking a taxi, or self-driving on poorly marked roads over 2+ hours, it’s the best option.
Our tour kicked off at 5am in an exceptionally uncomfortable minivan, not suitable for anyone over 6ft. No breakfast was included, but local vendors at the site sell snacks and fruits – I bought an enormous reddish banana.
The trek to the waterfall is actually a little treacherous. Expect steep stairs in various states of disrepair and slippery stream crossings. It’s manageable, but does require some surefootedness!
Pro Tip: Tours will recommend hiking shoes, but once you arrive, locals will insist you hire wet shoes to avoid soaking the ones you brought. They’re right, you’ll be wading through streams, sometimes knee-deep. So, I recommend that you bring your own water shoes if you own some, or just wear flip flops and hire the ones there – it’s only a couple of quid.
Goa Tetes
If the waterfall didn’t fully satisfy you, your trek can be extended downriver through the gorge to a cave. The walk gets trickier and the water deeper, but trust me, it’s worth every step for the incredible view once you get there!
Since the tour started so early, we were back at the hotel by lunch. After grabbing a quick bite, we made a beeline to our room for a pretty crucial nap… You’ll soon understand why.
Day 3: Sunrise at Mount Bromo
We booked this tour through our hotel for convenience, since we were heading to Yogyakarta right after and needed somewhere to store our luggage! Again, at £30 each, it’s a bit pricey, but to do it solo takes a helluva a lot more planning and time. It is worth it – trust me.
By the way, when I say “Day 3,” our Mount Bromo adventure actually started at 11:30pm on Day 2… Now you get why that nap was so important! In hindsight, if you are doing both tours, I’d recommend doing Mount Bromo before the waterfall, or leaving a day in between.
Pro Tip: We were picked up in the dark by a Toyota Land Cruiser for the 3-hour ride to the sunrise spot. If you can, look for a tour that uses a minivan for the majority of the journey before switching to the 4×4. Trust me, a long ride in a jacked-up mk.1 Landcruiser is verging on torture – it took weeks for my back to recover…
It’s cold at the top – despite hats, jumpers, and raincoats, we were still shivering until the sun finally appeared, bathing us in heat. But the views were worth it; spectacular fiery red skies, mist-filled craters, and steaming peaks in every direction! Even with the crowds, the sheer scale of the view makes you forget about them, and even the sleep deprivation!
A Vietnamese Tantrum
After the Bromo tour, we had several hours to kill before our evening bus to Yogyakarta. So, we headed to the much-recommended ‘SiagonSan’ – a slightly upmarket Vietnamese restaurant that doubles as a museum. The place is decorated like an Indiana Jones film set, which is cool, though a bit odd for dining. Unfortunately, the rooftop bar was closed when we were there.
Sadly, Mary-Ann was feeling a little off, so she opted for a simple dish of ‘Nasi Goreng’ (fried rice). I, on the other hand, went for a Thai green curry with all the trimmings.
Little did we know, what we were about to eat would become the best meal we’d had since arriving in Indonesia. My curry came served in a coconut, was bursting with colour, and smelled truly incredible. Wide-eyed, Mary-Ann glanced at her fried rice (which was also delicious), and quickly descended into a deep pit of food envy. I’m sure she won’t appreciate me sharing this, but I definitely saw a tear or two!
Naturally, as the caring husband that I am, I told her to “shut up” and proceeded to devour my curry like I hadn’t eaten in days. I still dream about that meal…
Yogyakarta
Temples, Temples and Temples.
Day 4: Taking it easy.
After running on fumes in Malang, a day of rest and recovery was desperately needed. Luckily, our hostel in Yogyakarta, Snooze, was the perfect spot to recharge. I can’t recommend them enough – amazing staff, someone stayed up for our midnight check-in, and the breakfasts were among the best we’ve had. Plus, the location is brilliant, just a short walk from the palace and Malioboro Street.
Once we’d caffeinated and eaten our fill, we decided to keep it simple and explore some of the interesting old stuff nearby:
Kraton Palace
An ancient royal palace with semi-preened gardens and a handful of exhibits. There’s not loads to see, but if you’re lucky, you might catch a shadow puppet show accompanied by an impressive traditional gong orchestra.
The Water Castle
Another old royal building you can wander around. However, bizarrely this one feels like you have just stepped into an old Mediterranean palace! Very interesting though, and the guides loitering around the entrance are both cheap and knowledgeable!
The Underground Tunnel and Mosque
Unfortunately, you can only walk through the tunnel these days. Though the mosque is still there, it’s closed to the public for safety reasons. Word has it there are plans to renovate and reopen, but it’s yet to start and has been dormant for years already.
Meeting the local crazy iguana lady
Unfortunately, halfway through our Water Castle tour, Mary-Ann was struck down by a severe stomach ache, leaving me to fend for myself for a bit. With some time to kill, I decided to check out the underground mosque!
The tunnel eventually spat me out into what can only be described as a Studio Ghibli-esque maze of tiny houses and cobbled streets, barely wide enough for a tuk-tuk. I mooched around in search of the entrance to the mosque, while dodging the occasional awkward stares from locals. Until, suddenly, a tiny, toothless old lady approached me with an enormous grin.
“Where are you from?” she asked.
“Uh, hello! The UK – England,” I replied.
“Harrow? London!?” she quizzed, excitedly.
I was taken aback by her oddly specific question, but managed to stumble through an explanation of the Cotswolds. But from there, the conversation spiralled into the bizarre realms of unfiltered randomness. She covered everything from why I couldn’t find the mosque entrance, to why she was soon to be evicted, the saga of her first husband who was Dutch and had an affair with her sister, the 20 years she spent living on a French hunting estate with her second husband, and eventually landing on her passion for collecting iguanas on the roof of her families home.
She even invited me to climb a ladder onto her roof to watch her son give one of her lizards a shower… I politely declined, opting to stay on the ground to witness the spectacle. Now I know that iguanas have the mental capacity to form their own opinions about bathing. Some of them love a good shower, while others run a mile! Who knew?
Random encounters are brilliant fun – don’t be afraid to walk around aimlessly sometimes!
Day 5: Temple Run!
Having spoken to our hosts on day 4, they suggested pre-booking tickets for Prambanan and Borobudur to avoid queues. Tickets aren’t cheap, at £23 per person, per site! So, seeing both cost us nearly £50 each.
Pro Tip: If you can’t afford both, pick Borobudur. It’s got more wow-factor, but it’s also more crowded.
Yogyakarta has loads of temples, far too many for a single day! But, here’s what we managed with a moped:
Prambanan
The world’s second-largest Hindu temple complex after Angkor Wat. You’ll need about 2 hours to explore, but there’s no time limit.
Ratu Boko Temple
Smaller and less impressive, but perched on a hill with amazing views, including a good one of Prambanan. Entry costs another £15. If you’re on a budget, skip the ticket and just head to the restaurant for the same view – and a very acceptable plate of Nasi Goreng!
Sari & Kelasan temples
Modest, ancient, and cheap. These two are less than 10 minutes apart by moped, and are on the way back to the city. You’ll probably have them to yourself too!
That was all we managed, because by mid-afternoon, we caught a bit of temple fatigue and decided to make our way back… Just in time for an enormous thunder storm… sigh.
Pro Tip: Watch out for sudden downpours in wet season. We got caught in one and it flooded the roads very quickly due to shoddy drainage. This made the moped very hard to ride, so much that we had to dive into a mall for cover!
Day 6: Yogyakarta to Borobudur
But first – Malioboro street
With our last hours in Yogyakarta, we explored the main tourist shopping strip. Malioboro Street offers horse-and-carriage rides, ice cream, Batik art (both real and fake), buskers, small malls, and some museums. It’s an interesting colonial spot, but very busy, and we were pretty exhausted! After browsing a Batik gallery and gobbling up some sushi, we headed back to our hostel to catch a taxi.
Borobudur
Borobudur Town
It’s only about 40 minutes to Borobudur from Yogyakarta. In fact, most people don’t even bother moving locations to see it, they just take a day trip! However, we wanted a new scene and Mary-Ann had read it was quieter, with more nature and authenticity. She was right about the quiet, there were maybe 3 other tourists in the town! There is also a lot more nature to – the chorus of frogs and insects at night was amazing!
Unfortunately, our accommodation didn’t quite match the area. The old higgledy-piggledy building, although charming, felt, smelt, and looked like it hadn’t been lived in for years. But, being just a 10-minute moped ride from the main temple made it worthwhile.
Dinner With a Surprise
We arrived at our accommodation during another thunderstorm, then hung around until the rain eased. Eventually, we braved the 10-minute walk to a Thai restaurant in Borobudur called Phuket.
It turned out to be the spot where the other three tourists in town were dining. They insisted we had to order the tom yum soup, it was “the best thing on the menu.” Awkwardly and reluctantly, we obliged, but only because they were watching us order with bated breath… Stupid tourists…
Then, something weird happened: a Plague of gangly, swizzley-winged flies descended on the restaurant… Thousands of them, flying into drinks, into people’s meals and most disturbingly, into the ceiling fans – sending twitching pieces of them everywhere!
Fortunately, since our food hadn’t arrived yet, we were whisked into the “VIP room” – a hidden, sealed air-conditioned space behind the main seating area.
The food was worth it though, those annoying tourists were right… The tom yum soup was fantastic, as were the soursop juice and mango sticky rice. So, if you go there, make sure you ask for the air-conditioned room!
Day 7: The Big Mama of Temples
How Borobudur temple works
We pre-booked our tickets online, so we just had to show up at our allotted time and walk right in. Unfortunately, unlike Prambanan, you can’t wander the site freely due to the crowds; you have to join a tour that departs every 30 minutes! It’s a blessing and a curse – the guides are knowledgeable, but you’re limited to only 45-minutes on the temple structure. That said, we somehow managed to lose our group and ended up staying for nearly an hour!
Supposedly there is also a museum to visit, however we, along with a handful of other tourists could not find it! When asked, the site staff just pointed into the distance and nodded… If anyone finds it, let me know!
After we were done frolicking around the temple, we found a restaurant with decent Wi-Fi and smoothies. Then just settled in to watch another storm, and got some admin done.
Day 8: Borobudur to Jakarta
Filling time before the sleeper bus!
Annoyingly, there’s no night bus from Borobudur to Jakarta. We had to go back to Yogyakarta to catch it, which meant another Grab taxi ride. Maybe this is another reason why most people don’t stay in Borobudur!
We didn’t need to be at the bus station until 8pm though, so we spent the day visiting a monastery and, of course, another temple!
Mendut Monastery
A small but photogenic active monastery. It has a few pagodas, statues, some impressive trees, and good amount of information boards to read. You won’t need more than 35 minutes to explore!
Mendut Temple
A small, ancient temple similar to those in Yogya. Entry is about £1, and it’s next to a huge, super cool tree. Honestly, I think I preferred the tree!
After replenishing our temple fatigue, we grabbed a taxi to ‘Caping Resto’ for lunch based, purely on its Google photos. Not a method I’d advise usually, but we had time to kill! And, thankfully, it turned out to be a great, affordable spot!
The Night Bus From Hell
We should’ve seen the signs when the bus stop was a grim concrete veranda owned by a crazy cat lady. The air was thick with the nostril singeing aroma of cat urine, the chairs were sticky, and the ‘staff’ couldn’t have appeared less interested if they tried.
The bus was 45 minutes late, but when it finally arrived and we boarded, we were in luck! It had actual sleeping pods with reclining chairs, pillows, and blankets that didn’t smell of dust or vomit!
Sadly, though, that’s where the luck ended… Despite smooth road surfaces and sensible driving, sleep was impossible. After 15-minutes, a faint waft of rancid porta-potty smell crept into our pods. The toilet, for some reason, was giving of some serious fumes, and for once it wasn’t me to blame! It grew and grew until it became unbearable and we were both gasping for air. Our only option was to douse a couple if Mary-Anns scarves in deodorant, wrap them around our faces and then hide under blankets, praying for sleep.
Miraculously, we did manage to fall asleep, but not for long! Because at midnight, we stopped for a ‘mandatory’ meal at a services… They ushered us off the bus and served us lukewarm miso soup, stale prawn crackers, some rice, and a neon pink strawberry drink. After that, sleep didn’t come back. Instead, we finished watching ‘Lost’, both squished into one pod. Oh, and yea… Everyone was right, that ending was terrible. I mean… Why is there a light contained by an underground cork? A stone cork, no less!! And, who the heck built it anyway?!
Jakarta
Early Birds, But Perhaps Too Early.
Day 9: Some More Sleep Deprivation
The remnants of old Batavia
Arriving way before check-in, as often happens after a night bus, means you’ll need to ask your hotel to store your luggage for a few hours. Don’t be afraid to ask – we’ve never had this request declined. We stayed at Bobobox, in Kota Tua (Jakarta’s Old Town), where you can find pod-style rooms for around £12 a night, which is an absolute bargain considering the location!
We tried to follow one of the online self-guided walking tours of Kota Tua, but we didn’t manage all of it – there are just too many museums to visit in one go! Here’s what we did, in order:
Pelabuhan Sunda Kelapa
We walked there at 7am hoping for a coffee enroute, but nothing was open yet. Then to make matters worse, the harbour was either closed off or piled high with shipping containers, so we couldn’t even get a view of the docked boats.
Pro Tip: Don’t head here too early if you go!
Museum Bahari Jakarta
A fascinating stop: a boat museum showcasing different types of boats used across Indonesia! Highly recommend it.
Jembatan Kota Intan
A very old bridge that you can’t walk across, located in a not-so-nice area. You’ll only need 2 minutes at most, but the good news is you pass by it on the way to the next spot!
Jakarta History Museum
This is a good stop, a nicely put together museum with plenty to see. Although, it’s mostly focused on furniture, which didn’t hold much interest for me personally, but still a worthwhile stop!
Museum of Fine Art
Another nice stop, though you might be starting to suffer from museum fatigue at this point, or the dreaded shopping legs!
Stasiun Jakarta Kota
We stopped by the old train station on our way to the penultimate stop of our self-guided tour! It’s only worth a flying visit, perhaps get a coffee inside.
Glodok Market
Jakarta’s old China town, featuring the most post-apocalyptic shopping mall I have ever been in called ‘Pasar Jaya’ (I think). The backstreet markets and food stalls were great and all, but the dystopian feel of the mall was something else. Echoey, dank, dark and totally empty, except the occasional skeletal chinaman tinkering with an old DVD player, surrounded by cigarette butts and dismantled walkie-talkies. It genuinely felt like a clicker might pop out at any moment… Or maybe a zombie!
The old Batavia Café
We finished our day with an overpriced drink and maybe some live music in the brilliant 1930’s themed restaurant and bar! Plus, it’s right next door to Bobobox!
Day 10: Central Jakarta!
After day 9, our feet were too sore for another day of walking in the capital. So we decided to minimise walking and use ‘grab’ taxis where possible. Which worked out well, since the plan was to get into the middle of town. Here’s what we got up to:
Monas Monument
A ruddy massive column in the heart of Jakarta, that you can actually ascend for 360° city views. It’s a must-do in Jakarta, and for just a few quid to enter, its pretty cheap! The diorama museum at the bottom is very interesting too – it’s all about the Indonesia’s journey to independence. Do get there early though, because it gets busy!
Istiqlal Mosque
Indonesia’s largest mosque. Unfortunately, it was closed for an event while we were in town, so do check ahead before visiting!
The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption
Jakarta’s cathedral is in nearby the Mosque, so you can see them in quick succession. But, as Brits who are spoiled for choice when it comes to grand Christian structures, it didn’t knock our socks off. It’s nice enough, but there isn’t much to see. You’ll only need 10-minutes.
Grand Indonesia Mall
One thing we always find fascinating in Asian cities is how you can walk past open sewers, poverty, unfinished roads, and potentially rabid dogs, then suddenly find yourself at the doors of a massive, flashy shopping mall. This one was no different – it’s huge, filled with designer shops, and surrounded by sports cars. We enjoy milling around these places, but the main reason we came was to see the film Wicked!
The Fire
I’ve yet to mention Jakarta’s traffic, have I?
It’s both atrocious and incredible in equal parts. I mean, how can a city function, when no one can move anywhere!? Due to this, we didn’t think much of sitting in standstill traffic on the way to the mall… Not until a police officer knocked on the driver’s window anyway! After a slightly stilted conversation with the policeman, our driver turned and informed us that the mall was on fire and had been evacuated. So the entire area of town around it was even more gridlocked.
As concerned as we were for those involved in the fire, watching Wicked was a must. So, we searched for other cinemas that we could go to – but it wasn’t easy… We couldn’t find a route through the traffic that wouldn’t take at least 2 hours. Eventually, we gambled and got dropped off as close as possible, then walked the rest of the way, hoping the mall would reopen in time.
Which it did, after a half hour of nosily walking around the scene eating chocolate-coated almonds. Phew – we made it in to watch the movie and no one was injured in the fire!
Day 11: The Last Hurrah!
Our time in Jakarta was coming to an end, but we still had one more day before our early morning flight the next day. To avoid waking up ridiculously early, we booked a room in another Bobobox near the airport. But before heading there, we decided to visit one last museum in Kota Tua!
Museum Bank Indonesia
An interesting look into Indonesia’s history with money. Some of things we consider fundamental in the UK, happened surprisingly recently in Indonesia! They also have a cool room filled with banknotes from just about every country in the world
A Free ‘Show’…
We found a relatively clean patch of kerb to perch on while waiting for our Grab to pick us up from Kota Tua. It had been about 15 minutes without any luck, and we were about to click ‘cancel,’ when a rather rotund local man approached us. By all accounts he appeared fairly normal, except for the eerie dead look in his eyes, as if he was staring into another dimension. He stopped right in front of us, just a bit too close for my liking, and began tunefully smacking his belly, grunting, and doing the crispest of hand farts. We were immediately hooked, watching in disbelief and shock. Sadly, his performance only lasted about 20 seconds before he silently turned and walked away as if it had never happened. Mary-Ann and I looked at each other and burst into laughter – one of the best moments of the entire trip so far. I just wish it had lasted longer!
The Next Bobo
After checking in at our next Bobobox, we dropped off our luggage and grabbed a taxi to ‘PIK’, Jakarta’s new Chinatown!
There are some great food stalls, a beautiful pagoda, and another epic mall. We spent hours wandering around, trying random foods, and browsing the grocery shops – it’s definitely way more interesting than Tesco or Aldi!
Once we were done, it was back to our pod to sleep. The best part about this Bobobox is their free shuttle service to the airport. I really can’t recommend them enough – great value for money!
So, was Java worth it?
I can’t deny that I do wish we’d explored Flores properly – it’s right up my alley with its wild nature, less development, and fewer tourists. Java, in contrast, is the complete opposite… To be honest, the only things they share are the language and weather!
But, I have to say that it was a very enjoyable 11 days! We managed to pack out our time with ease, and unexpectedly, it still felt like a real adventure – just one with less snakes, beaches and boats! In hindsight, I actually think it was good to have a break away from those things anyway!
There was more to do in Java too. We’d have loved to see Mount Ijen and Tanjung Tinggi, but you can’t do it all! Plus, there’s always next time, right?
So, if you are in Indonesia, don’t neglect Java! Try this itinerary our for yourselves and see if it surprises you too!
Stay bald folks.
Toodles,
Jack
