Liveaboards: You Don’t Always Need A Boatload of Cash
Our first encounter with the idea of a ‘Liveaboard’ boat trip was actually while planning our trip to Myanmar back in 2018. There, you can explore the ‘Mergui Archipelago’ for a week or two on what is essentially a yacht. But don’t get too excited, it probably wouldn’t be the kind of yacht you’d see docked in Monaco, nor would there be a Michelin-starred chef onboard preparing your meals. But you would get a bed, fresh seafood, and access to an amazingly remote and untrodden part of the world!
Needless to say, it didn’t make it into our itinerary at the time – not because we weren’t sold on the idea! It’s just that the costs were astronomical, and as we recently found out, it’s even worse in Raja Ampat! There, the liveaboard prices can spiral into the thousands PER DAY.
Due to this, our dream of a liveaboard experience had died… Or so we thought!
There Is No Such Thing as a Free Lunch… But This Comes Pretty Close
There’s an island in eastern Indonesia called Flores. It’s an amazing, relatively untouched place with an abundance of incredible sights – including volcanoes (more on that later). While plotting our route from Bali to Flores, I stumbled upon a company called ‘Wanua Adventure,’ which offers 4-day, 3-night liveaboard trips from Lombok to Flores via Komodo National Park. Sounds great, right? But here’s the good bit; the price was actually within reach for us mere mortals! At just £356 for the two of us, it worked out at just over £50 per day each!
“£50 a day per person?! Oi, Baldie, that’s not exactly a shoestring backpacker budget, is it?”
I know what you’re thinking, and yes, I agree to an extent. But, when you consider what’s included, to me it’s practically daylight robbery! You get:
– Three meals a day, plus snacks
– Unlimited water, tea, and coffee
– Three nights of accommodation
– A variety of activities (more on those in a bit)
– Entry to Komodo National Park
– Transport from Lombok to Flores
To achieve all that, while floating through turquoise waters under the tropical sun, for £50 a day? That’s crazy talk in my books.
The Volcano: A Quick Confession
Before diving into the trip itself, there’s something I need to confess. Remember how I mentioned that Flores is known for its volcanoes? Well, here’s the thing…
We had just boarded the boat and set sail with about 25 (ish) other tourists, and shortly after we all sat down for our first meal on the waves. Introductions, jokes, and travel stories flowed freely as we gorged ourselves on fish and fresh fruit. It was lovely, but then the conversation took a turn…
“So, how are you getting back from Flores? All the flights are cancelled,” someone casually mentioned.
“They are? How come?”
“The eruption! You haven’t heard?”
My eyes glazed over, and I felt Mary-Ann stiffen beside me. “Eh…?” was all I managed to muster before nervously stuffing another slice of pineapple in my mouth. As it turned out, a massive volcanic eruption had occurred in eastern Flores just a week earlier. The island was coated in ash and there were still smaller daily eruptions going on as we floated towards it. All flights were cancelled, and most of the island had effectively shut its doors to tourists.
Why am I telling you this? Because, quite unbelievably, we had managed to land a spot on one of only two boats that hadn’t cancelled their voyage! Every other operator had deemed it too risky. While that was more than a little unsettling, it did come with a rather incredible side effect…
We had the ocean, Komodo National Park, and the surrounding islands practically to ourselves. In peak season, dozens of boats would be running this route, carrying hundreds of punters around with them. But in our case, it felt a bit like we were part of a secret expedition, floating through near-empty seas. Silver linings, eh?
Day 1: A Warm Welcome, a Sunset and a Storm
There is a lot of distance to cover between Lombok and Flores, because Indonesia is absolutely huge. So, after an incomprehensible safety briefing and a long shuttle bus ride, we didn’t hang around, setting sail just after midday.
Our first stop came late in the afternoon at Kenawa Island, where we stretched our legs, took a dip in the crystal-clear waters, and climbed a small hill to watch the sunset. The sunset that evening was a little underwhelming, but nature had another spectacle in store for us. A massive lightning storm loomed on the horizon, headed directly for us.
Nothing makes you feel smaller than standing in an isolated spot with a gargantuan, flashy black cloud overhead – I loved it!
Day 2: Whale Sharks and… Well, that’s enough isn’t it?!
Prior to going to bed at the end of Day 1, I would have told you that the idea of sailing through the night sounded like a lovely thing to do. The sounds of the waves, a gentle rocking, and the fresh sea air drifting through our cabin window…
Well, perhaps this idyllic vision is achievable on a more pricey excursion, but for us, it was far from reality. Our small cabin was situated directly above the engine room, which meant a trifecta of heat, noise, and mattress-filtered fumes radiating through our bed. It was like trying to sleep on a hot water bottle in the middle of a petrol station. Earplugs, a fan, and sheer exhaustion did eventually allow us to sleep, but ‘restful’ isn’t exactly the word I’d use to describe it… Unsurprisingly, the next morning was… tricky.
We knew that saying hello to some whale sharks was on the itinerary, but we hadn’t expected it to happen at the crack of dawn, or to be in the water with them approximately three minutes after stumbling out of our cabin. It was a surreal way to start the day, quite the wake-up call!
A Slight Moral Dilemma
My personal feelings towards this activity are mixed… The tour companies basically guarantee whale shark encounters by working with the local fishermen and all the buckets of slimy, fishy crud they accumulate. So, although the sharks are free out in the open sea, the idea of them becoming accustomed to human feeding feels wrong to me. I mean, what happens if the fishermen stop feeding them?
There’s also the issue of the sharks becoming too comfortable in the water with hordes of tourists flapping about like idiots. In our case, there were only 30 – 35 people, but usually, there would be many times more!
It all felt a little odd to me. I hopped in, got an eyeful, then hopped back onto the boat to begin replacing my blood with coffee. But I will say this; they are truly incredible animals – absolutely huge! Yet, somehow they can appear and disappear from your vision within seconds, almost like a shadow!
Sunrise and Chill
After we’d all clambered back aboard, we watched the sun rise, then eased away from the marine feeding frenzy. The captain set a course in the direction of Komodo National Park and pressed the go button… And that was it. We wouldn’t stop sailing until the following morning! All we had to do was laze about, get fed, and, in our case, watch a few too many episodes of ‘Lost’.
An Unexpected Hazard
I’m not a short guy, not huge by any stretch, but my skull has certainly become thickened over the years thanks to countless encounters with doorframes, stairwells, exposed beams, and other architectural booby traps. That said, I did not anticipate the sheer level of cranial damage I would sustain on this boat.
As you’d expect, the doorways and ceilings on a boat are smaller and lower than average. But since this was a Southeast Asian vessel, everything was even lower, smaller, and noticeably less safety-conscious. Couple that with the constant rocking of the sea, and you’ve got yourself a real obstacle course for the noggin. I lost count of how many times I brained myself during the trip.
As a bald prat, each sharp edge, protruding screw, or splintery bit of wood left its mark, taking a little patch of skin with it. By the end, I was walking with a permanent stoop and a mild sense of paranoia, which unsurprisingly led to a delightful combination of backache and a strained neck.
A warning to all people over six feet tall, particularly bald ones.
Day 3: Forget Sharks, let’s talk about Dragons!
We woke at a more civilised time this time around, ate a relaxed breakfast, and even spent a little while marvelling at how our surroundings had changed so much overnight!
We were now in the ‘Komodo National Park,’ and it all looked remarkably arid, rocky, and harsh. Gone were the luscious green islands we had seen while cruising away from Lombok and around Sumbawa!
Real Life Jurassic park
Walking into the park really felt like we’d just stumbled onto a movie set! The trees, rocks, and Komodo dragons all looked so surreal, like it couldn’t possibly be real… but it was! It really is like that!
As soon as we hit land, Komodo dragons were already loping around, hunting for water or shade – and trust me, it was ridiculously hot that day. Even so, we decided to go for a longer hike (for a few quid extra) and we’re so glad we did! We spotted dragons of all sizes, lounging in the shade, looking ridiculously nonchalant and knackered.
A Beach Almost as Pink as My Scalp
To say we were sweaty after the hike would be an understatement, but luckily, after about an hour on the boat, we arrived at the Instagram breaking ‘Pink Beach.’
I’d seen pictures of the pink beaches before and always assumed they were heavily edited. My scepticism was further fuelled by what other people had said about the one on Lombok. But I have to admit, this pink beach was really blummin’ pink… It might even have been the highlight of the entire boat trip for us!
Why Are The Pink Beaches Pink?
As surprising as it sounds, the widely accepted reason for the pink colour is actually fish! Species like parrot fish munch on red corals abundant in the area, and, well… produce red poop – a lot of it! This poop mixes with the other sediment in the water, and gets washed up onto the beach.
The theory seems reasonable to me, but I have to admit, I’m still a bit dubious! The coral reef in the area was incredible – full of life and colour. But, definitely not overwhelmingly red! It’s amazing to think how such a relatively small amount of red can turn an entire beach (and others) completely pink! I can only think that there’s a lot more red coral deeper in the ocean…
Another Sunset!
After taking some time to jump into the water from the top of the boat, do a few backflips, and eat lunch, we began the last leg of Day 3 to Padar Island. This, along with the pink beach, was one of the major highlights of the boat trip.
The walk up to the viewpoint is of medium intensity, so it’s not a killer for anyone in good shape. However, there are quite a few stairs, and even in the late afternoon, it was still very warm! We worked up a serious sweat – bring water and sun protection!
But, it was totally and unquestionably worth it… The vista you’re treated to is absolutely incredible! You’ll see 3 coves, each with a distinctly different coloured beach, surrounded by dramatic, craggy rock formations – all framed perfectly by the sunset backdrop.
It was one of the best views my eyes have ever had the pleasure of wrapping themselves around. But I should say, this was another instance where having a volcano erupting in Flores actually enhanced our experience. Apparently, in high season, this particular viewpoint can get pretty overcrowded, so keep that in mind!
Day 4: Crunch Time…
Another night of sailing brought us to Manjerite Point, home to a fantastic coral reef brimming with turtles and fish. The visibility was fantastic, the water was warm, and the rainbow of colour beneath the surface was truly top-notch. The only slight hitch was the presence of a brutal current – made worse by our seemingly confused crew, who dropped us off at the wrong end of the reef. So, to see the entire site, we had to swim against the current, which felt a bit ridiculous, but what do I know?
In the end, it went fine… right up until we had to swim back to the main boat. Anyone with flippers was okay, but those without had a much tougher time. Stronger swimmers managed -though Mary-Ann and I were absolutely blowing out of our arses when we finally climbed aboard. Others, less comfortable in the water, had to be rescued by the dinghy, and one girl even needed a rope thrown out to her!
Kelor Island
Also known as ‘Shark Point,’ Kelor is a tiny island surprisingly packed with cafés and shops. Normally, out of volcano season, these would be packed with hordes of tourists eager to see the baby reef sharks swimming just off its shores. Stand knee-deep in the crystal-clear water, and you’ll undoubtedly have a shark or two cruise within a few meters of you.
Don’t worry, they’re only juvenile sharks ranging from 30 to 50 cm, mostly harmless, and entirely uninterested in humans. But crucially, they were incredibly cool, you get to see their every detail as they swish past your feet. Although as cool as they are, for me, Kelor’s highlights were the turtles and the viewpoint.
If you swim about 40 meters off the shore, you might find yourself in the middle of a turtle frenzy! There must have been seven or eight while I was out there, including some impressively large ones. It was like nature’s little reward for venturing just that bit further.
The Mistake
I mentioned the viewpoint… Well, Kelor Island has a hill with a rough, rocky path leading to its peak. Once I got bored of baby predators and turtles, I found myself at a bit of a loose end. Mary-Ann was deep into a chess match with a Canadian bloke, surrounded by other passengers pretending to care. While the rest were either sunbathing or sipping terrible coffee from wobbly plastic chairs. Fearing that boredom might actually kill me on the spot, I decided to scarper up the hill and began ascending at speed.
I made excellent time, reaching the halfway point in no time at all. And then, everything went horribly wrong…
The path started on the shaded side of the hill, with some foliage and even a tree offering relief from the sun. But by halfway, the rocky ground began to feel warm underfoot, baked under the relentless heat. Naturally, I hadn’t bothered to put on shoes before embarking on this brilliant little adventure…
A few more meters in, and the heat started tipping the needle on my pain-o-meter, but I was already over halfway. “Quitting now would be dumb. Come on! Man up, baldie,” I told myself, continuing upward. I found that stepping on the sharp grass was slightly less painful than the scorching rock, but the grass was getting patchier with every step. By about 75% of the way up, I had to face the grim reality: the grass was gone. My only choices were to either completely cook my feet or turn back.
I kept going. Obviously.
At the top, I couldn’t bear to stand still, hopping from one foot to the other like a madman or desperately seeking flat rocks to sit on. T was all I could do to snap a few crappy photos and cry a little inside at the thought of the descent. And let me tell you, the way down was not fun. I opted for the entirely unsafe and reckless “top-speed” method, running as fast as I could to end the ordeal.
Well, the fruit of my effort was a mediocre photo and incredibly sore feet for days. The moral of the story? Wear shoes when hiking.
As we cruised toward Labuan Bajo, Flores, our lead tour guide informed us that we needed to come up with a Plan B. Airports were still closed, and he had no idea when they might reopen. Unfortunately, some passengers had flights booked for the next morning, with work deadlines and other commitments looming… Those plans were looking shaky!
Thankfully, we weren’t in a rush. Our original plan was to stay on the island for a while, so we weren’t tied to any particular route. This gave us the luxury of hanging around and waiting to see what the airlines did.
In case you are interested. For those not so flexible, a lack of flights leaves just a handful of credible options for getting back to Bali, Lombok, or Java:
– Pelni Ferry: This is Indonesia’s incredibly cheap national ferry service, but be warned – it’s notorious for being irregular and slow. There’s an office in Labuan Bajo where you can check availability. Oh and by the way, it’s a 30-hour journey to get to Bali.
– Another Liveaboard Boat: You could hop back on a liveaboard like the one you just arrived on. A scenic and comfortable option, but a little pricey and at another 4 days, rather long-winded.
– The Bus-and-Ferry Marathon: This involves a series of buses and ferries, taking you through Sumba and Sumbawa islands. It’s definitely the most adventurous option, but you’d better have plenty of time, patience and some spare cash. I suspect you would need to spend some nights in accommodations to make this route work.
What the Flights Did…
As it turned out, by the time we arrived, the volcanic ash had cleared from the area and had settled over Bali instead. So, very irregular flights were leaving, just not to Bali. Lucky for us, we’d planned on flying to Java – phew!
The next day, flights from Komodo Airport to Java resumed, though all other airports on Flores remained shut, and the volcano was still occasionally spluttering. Because of this, sadly, we opted to truncate our Flores plans and booked a flight for three days later. That gave us two full days to fill in Labuan Bajo.
Labuan Bajo Day 1: Some Caves
With our first free day, we rented a scooter and set off to explore a couple of rocky holes: ‘Rangko Cave’ and the ‘Mirror Caves’.
Rangko Cave
Let me keep this brief – In our opinion, Rangko was not worth the time or money. It’s a trek to get there and you need to charter a boat for the last kilometre, making it quite pricey. The cave itself is small, dark, a bit smelly and pretty unremarkable. The whole experience cost us around 30 quid and three hours of our time.
Some days later we met another tourist couple who had the exact same underwhelming experience. Save your time and cash for something better!
Mirror Caves
The Mirror Caves, on the other hand, were much better – though completely misnamed… There’s absolutely nothing mirror-like about them! That said, they are quite something to behold – you can even spot some fossilised sea creatures frozen in time in the cavern walls for eternity!
For just a couple of quid each, you get a guided tour, a helmet, and a torch. It’s a total bargain and absolutely worth the trip!
Labuan Bajo Day 2: Fulfilling a Bucket List item.
I’ve always wanted to swim with manta rays. I’m not entirely sure why they fascinate me so much, but they do. In fact, a big reason I picked Indonesia was because I knew my chances of fulfilling this dream were pretty solid.
Plans hadn’t worked out in Raja Ampat, and I’d been warned against trying it at Nusa Penida because of the sheer number of tourists… Komodo National Park felt like my last real shot! The previous evening, we spent over an hour walking from dive shop to dive shop in town, trying to find one heading to ‘Manta Point’, that would also accept snorkellers aboard. Unbelievably, we found success with the very last shop we tried and we booked the trip without hesitation! It was about £45 each, and included breakfast, lunch, plus equipment rental.
The guys at ‘Dragon Dive‘, were absolutely fantastic – we couldn’t have been more impressed. While they’re primarily geared toward scuba rather than snorkelling, they went above and beyond to accommodate us. They even refined their dive site choices to ensure we’d have a great snorkelling experience too!
The mantas were truly epic… One of the best things I’ve ever experienced!
We were incredibly lucky, because not only did we see loads of them, but we also encountered a particularly huge, jet-black manta in waters only 5m deep. I could dive down and swim around with it without issue, but I’ve never wished for gills more in my life!
So, what about all that then?
Let me start by saying, if you’re considering the liveaboard boat journey between Lombok and Flores, just do it. It’s brilliant fun and very affordable, especially with Wanua! Just be prepared for a touch of mild discomfort – think body odour, questionable sleep, and cramped quarters. Push through that, and the overall experience is something truly special.
If possible, aim to go during the shoulder months or low season (i.e. somewhere between October and April) to avoid the droves of tourists… You can’t exactly count on a volcano going boom to thin out the crowds out for you!
As much as the eruption improved our boat experience, it definitely threw a wrench into our plans for Flores. That was a real bummer… I had a list of incredible places I wanted to explore, but those will have to wait until next time!
However, I can say that if you ever find yourself in Labuan Bajo, make sure to spend at least two full days there. Honestly, we could have easily done three or four. We missed out on some amazing waterfalls and countless other snorkelling spots.
Our entire week, from Lombok to swimming with manta rays, will undoubtedly go down as one of the top highlights of our trip. It truly delivered on all fronts, and it was a little heartbreaking to board the plane and head to Surabaya… A city that, as a fellow Englishman we met put it, “is not designed for human life.”
Yay…
Stay bald folks.
Toodles,
Jack
