Why Take a Flight When You Have Peninsula Malaysia?
I’ll be honest, Malaysia wasn’t a ‘top tier’ destination when planning our sabbatical. It kinda just seemed in the way of where we wanted to go – Thailand, Cambodia, etc. This wasn’t helped by the ‘meh’ reviews we got from fellow travellers in Indonesia. One couple even told us they only lasted a few days before fleeing on the next available flight… High praise!
But after the bazillion internal flights we took in Indonesia, we had sworn to reduce them going forward for cost and environmental reasons. So, we had to go through Malaysia, not over it!
Well, no surprises here – we absolutely loved it. So much so that it’s now firmly a ‘top tier’ destination in our books. The people we met must have done it very wrong!
First stop: Malacca – An Epileptics Nightmare
Hopping on a bus from Singapore into Malaysia is ridiculously easy – there are two massive bridges connecting them. You can cross in under 30 minutes and land in Johor Bahru or ‘Forest City,’ but we wanted to get a bit further in before stopping… We didn’t want to be able to see Singapore from out hotel window!
I suggest that you head straight for Malacca (or Melaka), a place so crazy that even its main attraction rhymes with ‘bonkers’! It’s a super interesting colonial port town worth at least two days of your time.
Pro Tip: If you aren’t in wet season and have a bit more time, you can catch a boat from Malacca to Sumatra! There you can spend a few days visiting the other kind of Orangutan that you don’t see in Borneo.
The King of Fruits
Durians are everywhere in Southeast Asia, but I don’t know why they’re considered fruit royalty… I mean, what’s the hype?
Up until this point, I’d only tried a durian milkshake in Singapore, which only used durian flavoured syrup and just tasted sweet. So, when I saw the actual fruit for a decent price in Malacca, I just had to give it a go.
It was a truly strange concoction of coconut milk, coconut jelly, durian ice cream, and a hefty chunk of the real deal slapped on top. The smell was intense, the taste even more so – funky is the only word for it… But, it is also sweet, creamy. The best bit was that my breath was wildly pungent for two days. Mary-Ann was actually a little distressed, because no amount of mouthwash or minty gum could shift it… The King is powerful indeed.
So, Why is it so Mental?
Well, by day, the town isn’t particularly mental. It’s a neat and tidy, historic colonial town with museums, a palace, ruins, and even a rotating viewing tower. By night though, it descends into utter madness!
Jonker Street is an assault of neon lights, blasting music, bizarre street performances, and food stalls selling things you’d normally see in anime. Then, craziest of all, you have the Trishaws… Essentially, I think what happened was this: one day, a man with a tricycle took an awful lot of magic mushrooms. Then, he was sat looking at his rather plain tricycle, when suddenly he began to feel the luminescent colours radiating from the wheels, he could taste the sounds of trashy pop music booming from all angles, and thought ‘EUREKA!’
The next day, once he sobered up, he headed straight to ‘Mr DIY’ and made it happen. Someone prove me wrong!
Before you leave, check out Masjid Selat Mosque, built on stilts over the sea. It’s a spectacular sunset spot, though be prepared to cover up – women must wear a full hijab to enter!
Second Stop: Kuala Lumpur – The Big City
We wanted to take a train from Malacca to Kuala Lumpur for a change – buses can get a bit painful. But, it turns out the nearest station is nearly 20 miles away! So, to keep things easy, take the bus. They’re regular and affordable, but Malacca’s bus station is a bit of a mess – old, chaotic, and not particularly well laid out.
Do As I Say, Not As I Do
Here’s where our suggested route through Malaysia, diverges from the actual route we took. Thanks to poor planning and some horrendous weather, we bailed on KL after two days – only to return three days later! So, unless caught in a multi-day downpour, don’t do what we did.
Instead, spend at least three days in the city. There is a lot to do, so take advantage of the decent public transport network. Here, are some must-see spots:
– KL Tower: Best skyline view, skip the Petronas Towers for this.
– Petronas Towers: Still a spectacle from below, and there’s a solid food court inside.
– Batu Caves: Impressive but crowded and a bit grimy.
– Kuala Selangor: Evening tours offer fireflies and incredible seafood.
– Times Square Mall: Not a great mall, but it has an indoor theme park on the 7th floor! A word of warning though, the roller-coaster is great fun, but the rest of the rides are just painful and nauseating!
– Pavilion Mall: Massive, swanky as heck, and home to a slightly hidden, but great food court.
– Jalan Alor: A popular food street market, with very intense crowds. Here, I gave durian another shot. This time it was fresher and slightly less traumatic… Still funky though!
Third Stop: Taman Negara – The ‘Oldest’ Rainforest
Or so they say… Taman Negara claims to be the world’s oldest rainforest, but I suspect it’s just the primary forests of the region, including Borneo. Either way, if you want an easily accessible slice of untouched jungle, this is it.
Book a bus with Han Travel, and you’ll be there in about four hours. Two days is enough unless you fancy a deeper jungle trek with camping.
Wet Season is No Joke
Remember when I said to stick to the west coast during wet season? Well, we didn’t… Taman Negara is pretty far east, and we quickly realised we may be in for some trouble. When we arrived, most of the roads were partly submerged in swampy water, and one was even completely impassable!
“It’s fine,” we said… “It’s called a rainforest for a reason!”
Turns out, the night before our arrival, the river had risen by seven meters. Yes, seven! Our guide wasn’t sure if we would even be able to enter the park. But by morning, the river had miraculously dropped three meters, making for a rough but doable boat crossing. We got very lucky, but maybe you guys shouldn’t try to visit in the wet-season.
It’s Not Quite Like The City…
Swap the monorails for muddy rivers, the food courts for native villages, and the skyscrapers for giant ancient trees. Aside from that, it’s kinda similar… I mean, we stayed in a room with an ensuite, there were a few restaurants around, and the nights were still noisy – just with frogs and bugs instead of cars and karaoke.
Unlike the city, though, there’s just one river between you and the rainforest. You can hike, camp, night trek, visit native villages, and partake in ‘rapids shooting’ (AKA riding upstream through choppy water with the sole purpose of drenching passengers).
We did a guided night trek, spotting glowing scorpions, snakes, and huge spiders, but no tapirs or elephants, unfortunately. Oh yeah, I should mention, this jungle has all kinds of big animals living in it; tigers, gaurs, leopards, and more. But don’t worry, the chances of seeing them are incredibly low, especially on one-day tours!
Fourth stop: Cameron Highlands – A Spot of Tea and Scones
As previously mentioned, this is where our journey went a bit wrong! From the rainforest, we went straight back to Kuala Lumpur again. You should head straight for the highlands, but be warned, it’s a pretty grim five-hour journey on winding roads (bring travel sickness meds!) You’ll need two or three days here, there is lots to do, but we found it a little cold! How did we ever survive in the UK?!
But, if you are like us and you do decide to take a detour through KL first, you’re still in for a four-hour bus ride! The first chunk of which is especially twisty, which even made me nauseous, and I’m usually fine on buses!
A quick warning… One thing you shouldn’t expect in the highlands, are endless rolling green hills like the ones you see online. In reality, nearly every inch of hillside is covered in polytunnels for year-round farming. The region supplies a big chunk of Malaysia’s vegetables, and it shows. I found it quite the eyesore, especially where the tunnels were in disrepair. To escape the plastic-covered slopes, head to the tea plantations – one of the few spots where you’ll find those idyllic views.
Strawberry Picking, Rain, Curry and Tea… Wait, Am I back In The UK?
I never asked if the locals say ‘scon’ or ‘scown’… They probably have their own word for it, but, in any case, you will see them everywhere, along with fresh strawberries and jam. But, as a highly discerning bald Brit, I must inform you that the jam and scones left something to be desired… But fear not, we did plenty of other great stuff too!
– Strawberry Picking: The experience seems to vary by farm. But ours had a lot of mouldy fruit, and what we did pick was bland.
– Tea Plantation: Fantastic tour! You’ll see how the tea is processed, admire the rolling fields, and enjoy a proper cuppa.
– Mossy Forest: Wet, muddy, and eerily beautiful. Bring a jumper and a raincoat!
– Rafflesia Flower: A bucket-list item for me! You can trek to see these massive blooms on half- or full-day tours. And yes, they do absolutely smell like a corpse!
– Curry and a Beer: The town centre is packed with restaurants, but I strongly recommend the Indian food. Ours was absolutely amazing!
Fifth Stop: Ipoh – I Hope You Like Cave Temples
Have your travel sickness meds at the ready – you’ll need them for the winding descent from the Cameron Highlands. Because, once you reach Ipoh, you’ll want to be in top form to try their famous chicken and rice and their prized pomelos! You should plan for two full days here.
If you’re a little green around the gills upon arrival, don’t worry, Ipoh has plenty to do beyond food. In fact, some of our favourite non-gastronomic experiences in Malaysia were here! You just need to be okay with stairs and caves… The colonial streets and ‘Concubine Lane’ are also worth a wander; it’s shabbier than Melaka, but that adds to its charm!
Even Though It Rained (A Lot) It Was Great!
To get around, you can rent a moped, book a tour, or like us, use Grab taxis. Although, looking back, I wish we’d gone for the moped! It’s an easy city to navigate, and most of the sights are a little spread out.
The town itself is totally walkable. In one morning, you can stroll the colonial streets, check out Concubine Lane, see the clock tower, and marvel at the old post office and war memorials. Then, try the famous chicken at rice at ‘Ayam Lou Wong’, before using the afternoon to explore a few of the surrounding attractions.
We barely scratched the surface of all the caves, pagodas and temples in the area! But in no particular order, here’s what we squeezed in:
– Tasik Cemrin: A ‘mirror’ lake tucked inside a karst formation, accessed via a small tunnel for boats. Fun, if a bit touristy.
– Tempurung Cave: A massive cave system with different access levels depending on your ticket. If you want the full tour, arrive early!
– Perak Temple: Stunning temple with panoramic views of Ipoh, but prepare for a lot of stairs.
– Sam Poh Tong, Nam Thean & Ling Sen Tong: Three temples close together, perfect for an afternoon stroll (just watch out for feral dogs).
– Gunung Lang: A quirky but peaceful park with a lake. Take a boat across to a somewhat deserted garden for a quiet wander.
Sixth Stop: Penang – Possibly The Main Event
Penang is the one place in Malaysia that everyone seems to love. Even the people who told us to skip Malaysia admitted that Penang was worth it. So, expectations were high, and we packed our four-day itinerary to the brim! Honestly, four days didn’t feel like enough – you could easily fill a week here.
The three-hour bus from Ipoh was straightforward, but watch out for where it drops you off. Some routes don’t take you into George Town (where you want to be), a couple we almost booked would’ve landed us on the mainland half of Penang! That would’a been a very rookie error!
Another thing to note, is that George Town is deceptively big. We stayed in two different spots – one slightly pricier place outside the centre, and another right in the thick of it. We only split our stay because December is busy and we couldn’t have either for the duration of our stay. But, it actually worked out well, forcing us to plan our days efficiently. In the end, we used buses, mopeds, taxis, and did a lot of walking.
So Much To Do, So Little Time!
Let’s face it, most people only come to Penang for the food. If you can name a cuisine, they probably serve it here. But the real stars are the Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Thai dishes scattered across town on most street corners. Many hotels even provide food maps to help you conquer every dish that catches your eye!
Although it is extremely varied, you don’t get Singapore’s neat-and-tidy hawker centres! Penang’s food scene tends to spill out into the streets, sometimes blocking roads entirely. Don’t expect proper tables either; we had one meal perched on fishing stools around a broken plastic table. You really have to lean into the chaos and embrace the spectacle. I can tell you, watching an decrepit old man whip up a Pad Thai every 60 seconds for hours on end, is mesmerising!
If that level of stimulation isn’t your thing (as an engineer with a touch of the ‘tism, I get it), there are countless restaurants you can sit in too. May I suggest anything in Little India or a place serving ‘Nasi Lemak’ – you’ll thank me later.
Even if you head towards the coast, the food doesn’t stop – it just gets fishier! The food centres here are more spacious too; the crab or oyster omelettes are unmissable!
Beyond the Food
Do your best to avoid a food coma! If you want to make the most Penang, you have a lot more to do and see! Here is what we did (other than eat):
– Penang National Park: Fewer tourists, a fun boat ride, some mediocre beaches, but the jungle trek back is the real highlight.
– Fruit Orchards: Visit a fruit or durian farm. They’re surprisingly fascinating, and you’ll try some delicious fruits.
– Floating Mosque: Friendly locals, but not as impressive as Melaka’s version. Watch out for getting collared by someone trying to convert you – I got stuck in a 30-minute conversation about the Qur’an!
– Batu Ferringhi Beach: Average at best by Southeast Asian standards. We didn’t linger.
– Penang Hill: A funicular train to a hilltop mosque, temple, museum, some other odd attractions, and some incredible views. Beware: 45-minute queues both ways!
– Chew Jetty: A charming wooden jetty lined with souvenir and ice cream shops.
– The Blue Mansion: A beautifully preserved colonial house. Our favourite bit was sipping wine in the courtyard while listening to a live pianist.
– Kek Lok Si Temple: One of the most incredible temples in Southeast Asia. The sheer scale is mind-blowing.
– Penang Times Square: Not as impressive as KL’s equivalent, but decent city views. Your ticket gets you access to an aquarium, a dinosaur attraction (where we were the only adults without kids), and a rooftop lookout. Unexpectedly, we were witness to a rather elaborate sky-high marriage proposal – and she said yes!
– Upside Down Museum: Skippable, but good for a laugh if you have time.
– Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi: A small but intriguing temple in George Town.
Happy Ken…
We figured we’d only need a moped for one day in Penang – everything else we could do on foot or by bus. The National Park, fruit orchard, floating mosque, and Batu Ferringhi were all doable in a single (long) day on two wheels. The only problem, was that our first hotel wasn’t near any rental places.
Enter ‘Happy Ken’ – or rather, an almost-toothless, probably drunk bloke sat at the roadside among a gaggle of pretty battered mopeds. Lucky for us, this was our closest rental option…
Now, I don’t know if Happy Ken is a self-proclaimed cheery guy, or if it’s some kind of brilliant irony. But, our interaction was a whirlwind of confusion, surprise, occasional rudeness, and remarkable efficiency. He spoke decent English, but I have no clue where he learned it… Maybe from Gordon Ramsay?
For the first few minutes, he repeatedly over-explained that his bikes were the best in Malaysia and the cheapest. Pro-Tip: just agree immediately, or he’ll get stuck on loop.
Next, he produced a crumpled notepad, scribbled down some details, and unleashed a torrent of expletives about how all other rental companies were crooks peddling death traps.
Finally, after taking our money, he walked us to our bike and gave a very detailed tutorial – pausing only to remind us again that it was the best and to warn us not to crash it, this time with a menacing grin.
Although we rode off feeling a bit jarred, honestly, the bike was pretty good! It cut out a couple of times and one brake was slightly questionable, but it did the job! Its just, still until this day, I dread to think what would’ve happened if we had crashed it… Maybe we’d have met Angry Ken?!
If you’re in Penang and looking for some wheels, give Ken a go! Definitely an experience worth having…
Seventh Stop: Langkawi – Our Gateway to Thailand
That was all it was supposed to be anyway, just a stopover. But Langkawi surprised us so much, and I think it was largely thanks to where we stayed!
If you’re heading here, do yourself a favour and check out ‘Kebun Lisdtari’. It’s not by the coast, nor near bars or clubs, but trust me, it’s a little slice of paradise you won’t want ever to leave. We spent four nights there over Christmas, and it was the perfect spot.
Even the coffee was great!
To get there, we had intended to take the ferry from Penang. But, it turns out that post-COVID it is yet to start running again. That left us two options:
1. Backtrack to the mainland and take a boat from Kuala Perlis.
2. Fly.
Unfortunately, with Christmas fast approaching and travel getting hectic, we broke our vow to reduce flying, and went with option 2… The journey took less than an hour, and flights between Langkawi and Penang are ridiculously easy to find.
Our First Christmas…
After a whopping 12 years together, somehow this was our first Christmas together – it was only right to do it on a tropical island! We’d worried about missing the usual roast turkey, mulled wine, and copious amounts of cheese, but honestly, we didn’t at all. It was fantastic, with loads to do, and despite being a Muslim country, there were even plenty of Christmassy things around too!
That being said, we spent a fair bit of time just soaking up the farm stay; it was too nice to miss out on! They had silly dogs, cooking classes, cats, geese, and even the odd hornbill. In truth, could have spent the whole trip there… But we did manage to squeeze in some other things too:
– Sky Bridge: The cable car ride up is unmissable, but be warned, it’s BUSY. We queued 45 minutes, and the top was packed.
– Optical Illusion Museum: Similar to the upside down museum in Penang. Fun, but skippable.
– Kayak Mangrove Tour: Skip the boat tours and do this by kayak instead. You get deeper into the mangroves, its beautiful and it’s extremely zen!
– Waterfall Hunting: Rent a moped and go explore! We even spotted a flying squirrel!
– Beach Hunting: Langkawi’s beaches aren’t mind-blowing, but Wild Beach is a decent place for a dip.
– Legenda Park: A nice stroll with monitor lizards, locals exercising, and a sunset if you time it right.
– Maha Tower: If you go, time it with the night market (they had a Christmas market while we were there). You can pay to go up the tower, but after the Sky Bridge, we gave it a miss!
– Wonderland Food Store: If you want an amazing seafood feast, look no further! Grab a bottle of wine from a duty free shop and bring it along, they’ll even chill it for you!
– Gunung Raya: Rent a moped and ride to the top for some more incredible views, but be careful of the monkeys!
Thailand Ahoy!
That’s a wrap for Malaysia! From Langkawi, it’s just a boat ride to Koh Lipe, and your Thai adventures can begin. Heads up though, the Andaman sea can get rough, so pack some travel sickness pills.
We took about 20 days to do our Malaysian journey, but you could speed it up or slow it down. Personally, I wouldn’t skip any of it, but if you’re short on time, you could go straight from Kuala Lumpur to Penang. You’d miss the forests, caves, and highlands, but you’d still hit Malaysia’s biggest highlights before heading to Thailand.
Bottom line – don’t skip Malaysia! It’s easy, accessible, and way more rewarding than stuffing more cash into AirAsia’s pockets. Plus, with amazing food, lovely people, and unforgettable stops along the way, you’ll come out the other side better for it!
Stay bald folks.
Toodles,
Jack
