Well, it Sorta Makes Sense… But, Still!
Most people we met in Southeast Asia – even in Laos itself – only planned for a max of two weeks there. Usually, they were trudging through the north, between Thailand and Vietnam via the slow boat and a bus, or nipping into Don Det from somewhere south. Occasionally, we’d meet someone doing the whole country in a couple of weeks, but they’d be rushing! Definitely spending as much time on buses as actually seeing stuff.
From what I can tell, Laos gets short-changed for a few reasons:
1. The infrastructure is slow and often painful, so travellers aim for a better effort-to-reward ratio elsewhere.
2. It doesn’t have any obvious ‘flagship’ attractions – no tropical islands like Thailand, no temple insanity like Cambodia, and falls short of Vietnam’s scenery. Though I’d definitely challenge that last one!
3. Many people just use it as a land bridge between Thailand and Vietnam, skipping everything south of Luang Prabang. Or they just drop into Don Det for a few days to smoke the devil’s lettuce, before heading onward.
4. It has a bit of a reputation when it comes to tourist safety…
If any of that rings true for you – keep reading. Even if you have different doubts – still keep reading! We spent about a month in Laos and still didn’t see everything we wanted to. If you skip it or rush it, you’re seriously missing out.
Hopefully, this blog will show why Laos deserves more of your time. Sure, you’ll battle some awful buses, grotty toilets, questionable safety, and (very) frequent miscommunications. But if you push through all that… You’re in for a proper adventure.
But First: What Not To Do
– Don’t underestimate the visa situation: Some land borders, especially the lesser-used ones, don’t accept e-visas or offer visa-on-arrival. We endured a truly HORRIFIC 24-hour bus ride from Hanoi to Vientiane, only for two poor souls to be turned away at the border after 12 hours onboard. One had an e-visa, one planned to buy one there… both got denied! Thankfully, we’d sorted ours at the Laos embassy in Hanoi. Do your research, and double-check with your bus company a few days in advance.
– Skip Vientiane (at first): If you’re starting from Hanoi and plan to see most of Laos, head straight to Luang Prabang and visit Vientiane on the way back. The capital has very little to offer, and thanks to Laos’ limited infrastructure, you’ll probably end up passing through it more than once anyway.
– Avoid burning season: Maybe this was manageable once upon a time, but now the smoke is awful. It’ll seriously mess with your views, and probably your even breathing.
– Bring small USD bills or kip: When you arrive, bus stations are often miles from anywhere useful, ATMs can be dodgy or non-existent, and taxi drivers won’t accept Thai, Cambodian, or Vietnamese cash. Having local currency or small-dollar notes will save you!
Our Route: There is Room For Improvement!
Hurrah – another near-useless map for you all! But really, this one’s more about showing scale than our exact route, because it can be a very slow place! Truthfully, we could’ve streamlined a few things!
To give you a sense of Laos travel reality, here are a couple of our deceptive journeys:
– From stop no. 4 (Nong Khiaw) to no. 5 (Don Det): we took a 1+ hour minibus to Muang Xai, followed by a 3-hour high-speed train to Vientiane (where we stayed a night). The next day, we endured a 10+ hour night bus to Pakse, then hopped in a 2 and a half hour minivan to finally reach Don Det.
– From stop no. 6 (Pakse) to no. 7 (Thakhek): two small buses, 8 hours total.
So yeah, journey times can be flippin’ long and very hit-or-miss. Roads vary, buses vary, and what looks short on a map might cost you an entire day (and some of your will to live).
Now that we’ve covered that fun preamble… Let’s dive into what you SHOULD do in Laos!
Vientianne: The Worst Capital City in Southeast Asia
When I say ‘the worst,’ I actually don’t mean that in a horrible way… Thanks to our poor route planning, we ended up spending 4 nights in Vientiane (3 nights too many), and nothing particularly bad happened to us. But honestly, there’s just nothing there!
It feels decades behind other Southeast Asian capitals in terms of development – which could be charming, right? Less glass, more authentic grit and less tourist tat… But no. There’s nothing to see of particular at all… It’s just kinda bland!
Pro Tip: The “Southern” bus terminal is not in the south! It’s north of the city and nowhere near the centre. You can easily lose 40 minutes (and some money) in traffic just getting to your hotel. When leaving, if you’re heading south, check for other bus or minivan departures (including private companies), before resigning yourself to the dreaded Southern terminal. If you’re going north, just take the train.
Pro Tip 2: There’s no Grab or Uber in Laos. But in Vientiane, there’s a local version called ‘KOKKOK’. Download the app, especially if you need rescuing from the un-southern bus station.
What To Do
Over three separate visits, we spent four days in Vientiane – mostly catching up on admin and drinking coffee. That said, there are a few things (just about) worth your time:
Buddha Park
Not quite as grand as the photos online suggest, but still photogenic and worth a couple of hours. Be warned though, it is a bit of a trek, it took our taxi an hour with traffic! Organised tours are overpriced, and taxis aren’t cheap (trust me).So, if you want to do it on a budget, hire a moped.
COPE museum
It’s small but potent! You won’t need more than an hour, but it’s absolutely worth it. I mean, did you know that Laos is the most bombed country in the world? During the Vietnam War, American bombers dropped their unused payloads here, and the Ho Chi Minh Trail was heavily hit too. The result of this is a country littered with unexploded bombs, many of which still injure and kill civilians to this day!
Night markets
There are two; one for food, one for… everything else. Neither will blow your mind, but they’re still worth a wander.
– The general night market by the river is fairly big, packed with cheap clothes and your usual Southeast Asian tat.
– The food market is smaller but more interesting, with cheap eats and the occasional monster-sized watermelon to marvel at.
Squeak!
With time to kill, we decided to treat ourselves to a slightly pricier brunch at Noy’s Fruit Heaven. We’d passed its vibrant fruit display a few times and spotted mango sticky rice on the menu (we’re suckers for that stuff).
Upstairs, we settled onto floor mats with cushions, next to low tables, opposite a trendy-looking traveller couple deep in conversation. As we tried to feel young a hip, a strange grating sound began behind us… It quickly grew annoying, but I chalked it up to nearby construction and did my best to ignore it.
Eventually, our food arrived. But just as the waiter set it down, the trendy couple suddenly jumped up and rushed over.
“No! Not yet, not yet,” the bloke said urgently.
We froze, watching in confusion as they and the waiter knelt beside our table, swatting the floor with a tissue and a strip of wood.
“No work, no work. Sorry!” the man kept repeating, eventually reaching for a nearby box.
Too curious to stay seated, I stood up to investigate, and immediately wished I hadn’t!
Turns out the mystery noise wasn’t construction… It was a mouse, industriously chewing a hole in the wall just two feet from us, clearly trying to get at our precious mango sticky rice! Eventually they managed to wrangle the mouse back inside and blocked the hole with the box, and thankfully, the chewing noise subsided – sadly, our appetites did too!
Vang Vieng: Not What it Once Was
This time, I mean that in a good way!
Vang Vieng was once infamous as Southeast Asia’s hub for all things drunk, depraved, and dangerously unhinged – a place to combine heavy drinking, drugs, and bodies of water! I’m sure you’ve heard the stories.
But I’m happy to report that those days are mostly behind it. That said… just a month before we arrived, several tourists were poisoned by methanol infused shots, leaving some blind, and others dead. So… Yeah, we gave the locally brewed hooch (Lao-Lao) a miss and basically avoided nightlife entirely. But to be fair, we usually do that anyway – we’re old, and I’m extremely bald.
That aside, Vang Vieng was a brilliant stop! There is A LOT to do, we filled three full days, and rented a moped to explore the area fully.
Pro Tip: If you’re arriving by train, the station is a fair way out of town. Taxis and public transport exist, but the easiest thing to do is book a hotel with a pick-up service. We highly recommend ‘Lao Valhalla’!
What To Do
Pha Ngern View Point
If you’re staying on this side of the river, you can walk to the Pha Ngern trailhead. Otherwise, you’ll need a moped, bike, or taxi. From the trailhead, expect a 45-60 minute moderately tough climb to a fork. Go left for the lower peak (10 mins more) or right for the higher one (another 30 mins). Naturally, we did both – we’re masochistic like that.
The views are absolutely stunning, and I still don’t understand how they got a whole buggy up there. But, this was also our first encounter with the hazy reality of burning season…
Num Bor Keo Cave
We did this right after the viewpoint, figuring a cool dip sounded great after a sweaty climb. The walk there was longer than expected, but beautiful and completely deserted – not another soul in sight!
In dry season, the pool isn’t big or deep, but it’s clean, cool, and refreshing. Just don’t forget insect repellent!
As for the cave, no guide needed – they hand you a torch at the entrance (entry is super cheap), and you follow painted arrows through the dark. It was super fun, but if you’re claustrophobic, unsure on your feet, or easily spooked, I wouldn’t advise going in alone.
Bloody Buggies
This isn’t a pro-tip or a funny story… It’s just the bitter muttering of a very grumpy bald bloke. Vang Vieng is genuinely spectacular, with insane rock formations, caves, rivers, and swimming holes. But what you probably don’t know is that the whole area is plagued by obnoxious, loud, smelly petrol-powered buggies.
Tourists race around in them all day, every day. Some use them as an overpriced alternative to mopeds, others in Mad Max-style tour groups, spewing clouds of dust and noise in their wake. They’re awful, inescapable, and destroy the peace. Honestly, consider wearing a mask if you’re walking anywhere near the roads.
Tham Chang Cave
This is a lovely, easily accessible cave just south of town. It’s large and cavernous, but not the most mind-blowing cave you’ll see in Laos. That said, if you head there around 4pm, you can climb to a viewing point in the cliff and watch the hot air balloons lift off – a surreal and unexpected sight! Just don’t hang about too long… the cave closes not long after.
More Balloon Watching
Tham Chang isn’t the only spot for balloon views. Head toward ‘Blue Lagoon Flying’ before sunset and you’ll find a clearing with stunning views of both the sunset and the balloons drifting past. If you’re lucky, you might even catch farmers herding their water buffalo home for the night – a real slice of Laos!
Blue Lagoons
These lagoons seem to have grown in popularity since the wild river tubing days were dialled down. There are about eight in total, each with its own charm, but some get much busier than others. Lagoons 1, 2, and 3 tend to draw the crowds, with bars, rope swings, and occasional loud music. If you’re after something more serene, try heading further out to one of the quieter spots like Lagoon 5, where there’s just a small shack selling snacks and a handful of visitors.
Nam Xay View Point
If a buggy on a mountain wasn’t enough, someone’s lugged a motorbike to the top of this one instead! The viewpoint offers nearly the same epic vistas as Pha Ngern, but with half the hike. The only downside is that you can’t walk there from town, you’ll need some form of transport to reach it.
Luang Prabang: How Much is Too Much Smoke?
This is the city everyone talks about in Laos, and to be fair, it’s miles better than the capital! It’s small enough to explore on foot, though a bike or moped helps, especially if your accommodation’s not central. There’s plenty to do in and around the area, so give yourself at least two full days.
Pro Tip: If you’re here during burning season, spend money on a room with air-con and sealable windows. We stayed in a hostel with just a ceiling fan and mesh windows – big mistake. I woke up coughing with a sore throat, only to learn the Air Quality Index had hit 180 – under 50 is considered safe!
What To Do
Explore the old quarter
The French colonial architecture makes for a pleasant stroll, and while you’re wandering, you can swing by a few of the nearby temples too. None of them are jaw-dropping, but they’re worth a look as part of exploring the town.
Kuang Si Waterfall
Hire a moped and start the 45-minute drive early; tour buses roll in mid-morning, bringing crowds of tourists. The waterfall itself is stunning, but don’t settle for just the view from the bottom – climb the stairs and explore the top too!
While you’re there, check out the bear sanctuary and, if you’re feeling adventurous, the zip-line (we skipped it – it was a bit pricey). On the way back, nip into spots like the Buffalo dairy and one of the rice-paddy cafes.
Pro Tip: If you have a moped, you may consider using it to visit ‘Pak Ou Cave.’ But honestly, we heard zero good reviews and skipped it ourselves. Trust me, you’ll find MUCH better caves elsewhere in Laos. Perhaps save yourself the hassle!
Mekong Sunset River Cruise
Sure, it’s a bit gimmicky, the disco lights and cheap cocktail deals don’t help, but it’s still a lovely way to spend an evening. A deep red-orange sunset and a mojito make for a great combo, especially while gently drifting along the Mekong!
Night Market
One of our favourite night markets in Southeast Asia, it’s a decent size, nicely pedestrianised, and packed with a great variety of food and souvenirs. We had dinner there twice – it’s tasty, affordable, and with a great selection of beers to wash it down!
Nong Khiaw: Bombs, Bicycles and a Failed Sunrise
This small mountain town is drawing more and more tourists, despite the truly horrendous bus ride to get there. The roads this far north are atrocious – the journey will leave you numb from the waist down. But once you arrive, the views and scenery are absolutely spectacular. Try to find a room on the riverside, you won’t regret it!
We got around on free bicycles provided by our accommodation, but honestly, I wish we’d paid for better ones. The freebies were in pretty awful shape and caused us more harm than good.
What To Do
Hiking
Like in Vang Vieng, there are several hikes around Nong Khiaw, and most offer sunrise views and hopes of seeing the much Instagrammed ‘sea of clouds’ – where you sit above the clouds as the sun rises.
We got up at 5am, cycled (painfully) to the trailhead on our awful bikes, and rushed up to the Phadeng viewpoint. At the top, we were surprised to find about 30 tourists already camped out, having done an overnight tour. But, unless you love sleeping on a roll mat, surrounded by mozzies, I’d skip it. Wake up early and go yourself – it’s free!
Sadly, after all our effort, there was no sunrise or clouds for us. Just thick, smoky haze in every direction.
Also, remember the COPE museum in Vientiane? The one about all the unexploded bombs? Well, that’s kind of a problem here… The area still has unexploded ordnance and it’s not at all fenced off! Stay on the path, folks!
Day Trip to Muang Ngoy
You’ll find plenty of tour agents (or just helpful locals) willing to take you upriver to this quiet little town. It is technically reachable by road, but as I previously mentioned, the roads are appalling. So, the boat’s a far better option, especially since you can stop at a lovely little waterfall enroute.
Many travellers stay a night or two to enjoy the serenity, hikes, and nearby caves, but we just squeezed in a quick lunch and a trek up to the Phanoi viewpoint. Which had very similar views to Nong Khiaw, just with a bit less smoke!
Don Det: A Very Wet Affair
Our first night bus in Laos was quite an experience! Instead of pods or recliners, Laotian sleeper buses offer ‘double’ beds, meaning if you’re travelling solo, you might end up sleeping next to a stranger. Some tourists bought two tickets to avoid this, but that didn’t stop the bus from being oversubscribed with puppy-eyed locals eyeing up the free space. My advice; don’t be a dick, just buy one ticket if you’re travelling alone!
Don Det itself was immediately hotter and more humid than anywhere else we’d been. Straight away, massive overnight storm soon knocked out the electricity, leaving us without fans, air con, or even running water – it was WARM, and the BO was inescapable! Still, despite being firmly on the backpacker trail, Don Det didn’t feel too touristy or crowded – it’s a beautiful spot!
What To Do
Cycle Tours
Most accommodations rent out bicycles, and you should definitely grab one because Cycling around Don Det is truly lovely! It reminded us a bit of Kaoh Trong in Cambodia, except with bars and a minigolf course (that we never found…) That was fine though – it was enough to just chill at the river beaches and temples! You can also pedal across the bridge to Don Khon to check out the Li Phi waterfall and a few other sights.
A quick word of warning – some bars are pretty liberal with ‘recreational activities’, which unlike Thailand, are still very much illegal in Laos!
Kayak Tour
You can book well-priced day tours that take you across land and river to see the famous Khone Falls – AKA, the widest waterfall on Earth. You’ll also learn about local fishing methods, feel the power of the smaller falls, and relax on isolated little islands while your guides whip up some lunch.
Pro Tip: When your guide casually mentions that the rapids might capsize you… Take heed! Mary-Ann and I felt pretty confident, and the rapids didn’t look too… well, rapid! But seconds later, we were in the drink. Keep phones and wallets in a waterproof bag, and strap it to yourself or the boat!
Just When I Thought I Couldn’t Get Any Dumber…
I’m an idiot, this much is well established. But I didn’t feel like I was being particularly dumb when I agreed to wade out to a fish trap in the middle of a fast-flowing river with our guide. It wasn’t very deep, and the 5ft-tall locals were managing with ease – I was convinced I could do it!
I got about 75% of the way before a rock shifted underfoot, sending me forward and up to my chest in the water. Still, I didn’t panic. I was close, and could easily swim/lunge the final metre or so… or so I thought. I didn’t realise the fish trap was smooth, handhold-free, and absolutely coated in slime. My hands clutched and scraped nothing but algae. Then the river had me.
Luckily, our guide (laughing loudly) grabbed me by the neck of my shirt and hauled me back in for another attempt to find something to grip. The rest of the tour group looked horrified, but my darling wife? She was in fits of laughter while filming the whole thing!
Moral of the story is: don’t wade into a river when your wife is around…
Xe Pian: A Bit of Luxury Once in a While is OK
It was our 5-year anniversary, and after the heat, humidity and constant perspiration of Don Det, we decided it was time to treat ourselves. We may have more than doubled our budget to stay at Kingfisher Lodge, but honestly, it was worth every Kip! Two luxurious nights in white bathrobes, eating great food and floating around in a pool like we owned the place. Our room overlooked a wetland bird sanctuary too, which is perfect if you’re into a bit of twitching.
That said, there are cheaper rooms available – some with less of a view, or even without AC. Don’t be put off if you’re on a tighter budget!
We also booked a forest hike with a local medicine man, taking us through the supposedly ‘protected’ national forest and up to some old ruins. Along the way, he showed us dozens of edible and medicinal plants – we tried ants, various leaves, made rope from bark, and even found a natural insect repellent. It was fascinating, but also pretty sobering. He spoke about the forest being destroyed to make space for tapioca farming, despite its protected status. The decimation has all but eradicated the wildlife and its stripping him of his livelihood, yet no one enforces the rules!
The Tapioca Tragedy – Boycott the Boba!
You probably haven’t heard about it, but tapioca is wreaking havoc across Southeast Asia – especially in Laos and northern Thailand. The high demand and good profit margins are pulling farmers away from traditional crops, which sounds ok, but Tapioca needs A LOT of land area.
To make space, forests are being cut down and burned, whether they’re protected or not, and turning their ashes into fertile fields. It’s a major driver behind the worsening burning seasons, which, frankly, made large parts of our trip a smoky mess!
“But who’s buying all this tapioca?” I hear you ask. Well, a bunch goes to China. But, there’s a surprise offender too – bubble tea! Yep, those chewy little ‘Boba’ balls are made from tapioca, and the world can’t seem to get enough of them right now!
If you take just one thing from this blog, let it be this: next time you’re in town, skip the bubble tea and grab a Coke instead! (I’m not sponsored by Coke, I promise!)
Pakse: An Introduction to True Pain
If you didn’t already know, there’s not much to actually do in Pakse itself. The real reason people come is for the moped loop – a mini road trip around the Bolaven Plateau. If a moped loop sounds a little foreign to you, don’t worry, it did to us too. It’s extremely easy – we just rocked up to a moped rental shop we’d been told about (Miss Noy – highly recommend!), and went with the flow. I’ll explain more below.
What To Do
Pakse Loop
Rent a moped and go for an adventure! It’s genuinely very simple, just pack a small bag with 3-4 days’ worth of stuff, then head to Miss Noy to rent your bike, and leave your luggage with them. If you’re still feeling unsure, head there the night before and attend their daily info session, where you’ll get a map and tips for the loop.
Once you’ve got your wheels, confidence, and rough plan, you’ll soon bound for some of Southeast Asia’s best coffee, epic waterfalls, and possibly the best zipline you’ll ever ride. I won’t bore you with our full itinerary, but I will say you’ve got to make time for the zipline at Tad Fane, coffee at the 1971 Café, and a hike around Tad Tayicseua Homestay.
Pro Tip: If you’re not a hardened moped warrior, don’t underestimate the pain your derrière will endure, and sharing a bike only makes it worse for both driver and passenger! Wear padded shorts if you have them, and take regular breaks before the ache becomes irreversible. We learned the hard way…
“Huh! That was close, wasn’t it?!”
Remember the COPE museum? Remember all those unexploded bombs in Laos? Well… we found one.
While riding the Pakse loop, we rounded a blind corner and had to swerve sharply to avoid something in the road. We stayed upright, circled back, and well… it was a bomb!
It had likely rolled down from the hill above, which was currently being attacked and deforested by a fleet of diggers. I snapped a photo and planned to alert the next guesthouse or café. On our return trip later that day, thankfully someone had placed some sticks either side of it… you know, for safety…
If you had any doubts about the severity of the bomb problem in Laos – consider this as proof!.
Vat Phou (Wat Phu)
We visited Vat Phou as a day trip from Pakse (about an hour’s moped ride), though many people extend their Bolaven Loop to include it. It’s kind of Laos’s answer to Angkor Wat, since it’s from a similar era and civilisation, and in roughly the same region. But, that’s where the comparison ends.
It’s far less intact than the Cambodian giants, but it doesn’t lack charm. In fact, it boasts one of the best staircases I’ve ever climbed! Also, unlike Angkor, it’s blissfully quiet… you’ll only be among a handful of people!
Thakhek: Another Opportunity to Damage Your Buttocks
Much like Pakse, Thakhek itself doesn’t offer much… arguably even less! But, once again, the real draw is its moped loop. We didn’t meet many people who did both the Pakse and Thakhek loops, but if you’ve got the time, absolutely do it!
Where Pakse has epic waterfalls and great coffee, Thakhek delivers jaw-dropping caves and seriously stunning landscapes. It’s a longer loop overall, so you’ll either need to spend more hours on the road each day (your arse may complain), or add an extra day to your trip.
Were those Gunshots?!
We still can’t decide which loop we preferred, but I can say the burning season seriously impacted us in Thakhek. I mean, did you know that when bamboo burns, it explodes, sounding like distant gunfire? The moisture and gases expand until the cane erupts with a bang!
This phenomenon made for a rather rude midnight awakening halfway through the loop. Some farmers had set fire to a nearby forest (as they do), and it spread undetected through the night, smouldering under the leaf litter until it reached the bamboo forest next to our accommodation.
Thankfully, it stopped at a riverbank, helped along by a small army of bucket-wielding locals! But, it could’ve ended much worse. Just another example of the ever-growing tapioca problem…
What To Do
Thakhek Loop
Same principle as the Pakse loop, just without a ‘Miss Noy’ equivalent to ease you in. That said, many rental shops and hostels are super helpful. We stayed at Naga Hostel, which provided a very decent suggested route, and once you get going, it’s no more difficult than Pakse – promise!
However, if you’re travelling during burning season, I’d actually suggest you skip this one. Thakhek was the worst area we encountered; forest fires, thick smoke, and obscured views meant we missed some of the best scenery.
In more favourable months, don’t miss the boat tour through Kong Lor Cave, hike as far as you dare into Than Nam Non Cave, and stay a night at The Rock Lodge – don’t miss their ziplines!
See? There is Far Too Much to do in a Couple of Weeks!
After wrapping up the Thakhek loop, we hopped on a night bus back to Vientiane to catch our flight to our next destination. But, you could just easily cross into Thailand for a change of scenery – it’s just a stone’s throw across the Mekong!
The Sheeper Bus
It only made sense that our final sleeper bus in Laos would be the most extreme one yet.
Boarding took longer than usual – there seemed to be an inordinate amount of stuff being passed onto the roof, and even more crammed inside the bus. But eventually, we rolled out, and a sleeping tablet soon delivered us into a coma on our rock-hard double bed.
At some point later, I awoke to a truly acrid stench filling my nose… Was someone being sick? Was there an onboard toilet I’d missed? Mary-Ann stirred too, also nauseated by the aroma. But, what was it!?
When the bus stopped at a junction or in traffic, we began to hear strange noises outside, only faintly, but then the smell returned – stronger than ever. This time accompanied by a thick yellowish stream of fluid trickling down our window. Upon further inspection, we noticed the glass was already heavily stained with past flows of mystery goo.
We drifted in and out of sleep, roused each time our noses sounded the alarm. Each time, there was another fresh trail of goop down the glass. Thankfully it wasn’t leaking in, not that we could tell anyway! The sounds outside never stopped either, we were baffled as to what it was…
Well, groggy and confused at the 3am rest stop, we got our answer.
Lit by a few very dim lights, we saw the source of the noise and the goo – an entire herd of goats strapped to the roof. Dozens of poor animals, tied down and helpless, continually defecating, urinating, and vomiting as the bus rumbled through the night.
It was gut-wrenching in every sense. But all I could think was – how did they even get them up there?!
Stuff We Missed
I always think it’s the sign of a great country when, after 30 action-packed days, you still leave with stones unturned.
Here are a few places we didn’t get to, but wish we had. You might want to consider for your own trip:
1. The plain of jars: An extremely weird an mysterious region filled with ancient, massive stone jars – no one knows their exact origin. Some even say it was the work of Aliens!
2. The Gibbon Experience: Yes, it’s pricey and probably a bit touristy, but it looks like a lot of fun. It’s just a little out of the way unless you’re coming from northern Thailand.
3. Phou Louey National Park: As far as I can tell, this is one of the last truly healthy chunks of forest left in Laos… for now. It’s way out west, the roads are rough, and it takes some effort to get there, but we met a few people who made the trip, and they raved about it.
Conclusion: Was it Worth it?
Absolutely.
Don’t rush Laos! Use every day of your visa. It’s cheap, it’s adventurous, the people are great, the food is underrated, and the waterfalls and caves are genuinely world class.
That said, there is truth to the rumours… Outside of the shiny new high-speed rail, the infrastructure is… well, utterly crap. You’ll also face more small annoyances than in neighbouring countries, like language barriers, dodgy ATMs, no Grab, and the occasional bit of methanol poisoning! But, keep your wits about you and you’ll be fine. Laos isn’t hard to travel – it’s just a little slow, a little bumpy, and very unpolished.
But to put it in perspective… Cambodian roads and buses aren’t much better, and we actually slept less on Vietnamese sleeper buses! Neither of us had stomach issues there, despite plenty of night market dining, and, perhaps most importantly, the beer selection in Laos was among the best we found in Southeast Asia!
As they say, nothing worth having ever comes easy. Right?
Stay bald folks.
Toodles,
Jack
